Quotes

[on surfing the big waves at Waimea Bay in Hawaii] I don't remember fear. I just wanted to do what the guys did. I didn't think twice about it.

[on what surfing means to her] For me, it's self-expression -- it's how I express myself. Someone once said, years ago, that it's like we use the waves as our canvas and the board as our pen. This is our art. I've always believed and felt that. Surfing is a true inner art form of expression. Each wave is different and each one a different painting. I have been really lucky. I've gotten a lot of gifts through the years because of surfing, for which I'm very grateful of.